You've bought American Diamond before. Most of us call it AD or CZ, and for a while, that was fine — a pair of studs picked up on impulse, a ring added to cart late at night, something that completed an outfit without demanding too much thought.
But here's the thing: American Diamond was never built to last. It was built to *look like* a diamond, not *be* one. And if you're still wearing the same AD pieces from two years ago, you've probably noticed. The sparkle's gone soft. The edges look slightly worn. You don't reach for them as much anymore. They're in a drawer now, or you gave them away.
What American Diamond (AD) Actually Is
American Diamond — AD, for short — is a market name, not a mineral. Chemically, what you're wearing is cubic zirconia (CZ): zirconium dioxide (ZrO₂), a synthetic crystal created in a lab to mimic diamond appearance . (Source ). It contains zero carbon. It is not a gemstone — it is a diamond simulant, a category that includes any material designed to resemble a diamond without sharing its chemical or physical properties. Every American Diamond is cubic zirconia; the name changed, the stone didn't.
On the Mohs hardness scale, AD ranks 8 to 8.5. Diamond — whether mined or lab grown — sits at 10. That gap matters more than the numbers suggest because the Mohs scale is not linear. A diamond is approximately four times harder than corundum (sapphire, ranking 9), which means AD at 8.5 is substantially softer than diamond in practical, everyday wear. Source
Surface scratches accumulate. Facet edges wear down. Within 2 to 3 years of regular wear, AD loses its crisp brilliance and develops a cloudy, dull appearance (Source) . You can clean the dirt off, but you cannot polish away micro-abrasions on a stone this soft. Replacement becomes the only option.
AD also differs optically. Its refractive index sits at 2.15–2.18, below diamond's 2.42. This produces a slightly diffused, "disco-ball" fire rather than the sharp, focused brilliance of a real diamond (Source). The difference is subtle in a store display. It becomes obvious in daylight, over time, and next to the real thing.
A Lab Grown Diamond Is Not a Simulant
It is a real diamond — pure carbon, crystallised in the isometric cubic system, chemically identical to a mined diamond [source](https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/difference-between-natural-laboratory-grown-diamonds). The only difference is origin: one formed under the earth's crust over millions of years; the other grew in a controlled facility over weeks. The U.S. Federal Trade Commission recognised this equivalence in 2018, revising its jewellery guides to include lab grown diamonds within the definition of "diamond" [source](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_diamond).
Lab grown diamonds score 10 on the Mohs scale. They resist scratching, maintain facet integrity, and retain brilliance over decades — not years. They are graded by the same 4Cs standard as mined diamonds: Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat. Leading laboratories like IGI (International Gemological Institute), GSI (Gemological Science International), and DHC (Diamond High Council) issue full grading reports for lab grown diamonds, documenting each stone's precise specifications [source](https://www.igi.org/reports/lab-grown-diamond-report/) [source](https://www.gemscience.net/). IGI pioneered lab grown diamond grading in 2005 and continues to apply the same rigorous 14-step process used for natural diamonds, including laser inscription of the report number on the girdle for traceability [source](https://www.igi.org/igi-reaffirms-commitment-to-4cs-grading-for-all-diamonds/).
The Price Gap Is Smaller Than You Think
Here's what most people miss: the price delta between American Diamond and a lab grown diamond, in finished jewellery, is often just ₹3,000 to ₹5,000 per piece.
Let's be specific. A pair of AD stud earrings in a basic alloy setting typically retails for ₹1,500–₹3,000. The same design in 925 sterling silver with Gold Vermeil (5X thick real gold plating) and a certified lab grown diamond? At MavenMint, that sits in the ₹6,000–₹9,000 range. That's a gap of roughly ₹3,500–₹5,000 for a real diamond, real silver, real gold plating, and a certificate you can hold.
Yes, the absolute price is higher. But the cost-per-wear inverts quickly. American Diamond jewellery lasts 2–3 years with regular use before it becomes unwearable. A lab grown diamond piece lasts indefinitely with basic care. Over five years, you may replace AD twice. The lab grown diamond piece endures. The maths shifts from "cheaper now" to "cheaper over time" — and that's before even considering the confidence boost you get.
Certification Changes Everything
Every lab grown diamond from a credible brand carries an independent grading certificate — typically IGI, GSI, or DHC in the Indian market. This certificate documents the exact 4Cs grade, growth method (CVD or HPHT), and a unique laser-inscribed number traceable to the report. Source
American Diamond carries no such documentation. It cannot. There is no universal grading standard for cubic zirconia because it is not a gemstone — it is a manufactured simulant with no intrinsic gemological value. You cannot verify what you bought. You cannot prove what you own.
What Happens When You Try to Exchange or Resell
American Diamond has zero resale value. Zero buyback value. Zero exchange value (Source). No jeweller will purchase it back. No brand offers exchange programs. The metal setting might retain scrap value, but the stone itself is worthless the moment you leave the store.
Lab grown diamonds, by contrast, hold real exchange value. In India, fine jewellery brands typically offer 75% to 100% exchange value on lab grown diamond pieces within defined periods. At MavenMint, MintSwap offers 70% of invoice value as cash buyback or exchange credit — a policy that exists because a lab grown diamond is a real diamond with certifiable identity and market recognition. American Diamond holds none of these. You cannot build a collection from something no one will take back.
Gifting: What You Actually Give
When you gift American Diamond jewellery, you are giving something temporary. Something that will cloud, scratch, and eventually require explanation. "It's AD" becomes a softer way of saying "it's not real."
When you gift a lab grown diamond, you are giving a certified gemstone. You can say, "It's a diamond," and mean it precisely. The recipient receives a piece with documented quality, lasting brilliance, and the option to exchange or upgrade through MintSwap. One is a gesture. The other is a possession that stays.
The Shift
This is not about status. It is not about "investing" in jewellery. It is about choosing materials that match your intention.
If you are buying jewellery to wear regularly — to work, to dinners, to moments that matter — you need materials that survive regular wear. American Diamond does not. Lab grown diamonds do. If you are building a collection rather than cycling through disposable pieces, you need materials that hold identity and value. American Diamond cannot. Lab grown diamonds can. If you are gifting something that should outlast the occasion, you need a stone with substance behind it. American Diamond is surface-level by design. Lab grown diamonds are substance.
The gap between the two has never been narrower in price. The gap in what you actually get has never been wider.
American Diamond had its moment. It served a purpose — low-cost, low-commitment, temporary sparkle. But if you're choosing silver over alloy, vermeil over basic plating, and design over discount, you've already moved past that phase.
Lab grown diamonds let you complete that shift. Real carbon. A certificate from IGI, GSI, or DHC. Durability that doesn't fade. For a difference of roughly ₹3,500–₹5,000 per piece.
You don't need to wait for a "big diamond moment." You can start where you are.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. What is the difference between American Diamond and a lab grown diamond?
American Diamond — AD — is a market name for cubic zirconia, a manufactured crystal with no carbon content, created to look like a diamond. A lab grown diamond is real crystallised carbon, chemically and physically identical to a mined diamond, just grown in a lab instead of underground. The practical difference shows up in hardness (AD scratches and clouds within a few years; diamonds don't), certification (AD has none; lab grown diamonds come with IGI, GSI, or DHC grading reports), and resale value (AD has zero; lab grown diamonds hold exchange value through programs like MintSwap). Source
Q2. Do lab grown diamonds come with certification in India?
Yes. Reputable Indian brands provide IGI, GSI, or DHC grading reports for lab grown diamonds, documenting the 4Cs, growth method, and a unique laser-inscribed traceable number. Source1 , Source2 .
Q3. Can I exchange or resell American Diamond jewellery?
No. American Diamond has zero resale, buyback, or exchange value. It is not recognised as a gemstone by the jewellery trade. Lab grown diamonds, as real diamonds, are supported by brand buyback and exchange programs in India — typically 75% to 100% exchange value, with MavenMint's MintSwap offering 70% of invoice value. Source.
Q4. How long does American Diamond last compared to a lab grown diamond?
With regular wear, American Diamond typically becomes cloudy and scratched within 2–3 years. Lab grown diamonds, like mined diamonds, maintain brilliance indefinitely with basic care. Source
Q5. Are lab grown diamonds real diamonds?
Yes. The U.S. Federal Trade Commission and gemological laboratories including GIA, IGI, GSI, and DHC recognise lab grown diamonds as real diamonds, sharing the same chemical, physical, and optical properties as mined diamonds. Source
About the Author
Dheeraj Jain is a second-generation jeweler and generational talent in the silver jewelry space, with deep roots in two family-run brands in Mumbai, India, representing over 40 years of family heritage in the trade. Holding a Master’s degree in Marketing from the University of Nottingham, he combines strategic consumer insights with hands-on expertise across digital marketing, brand building, and modern jewelry retailing. In addition to his background in silver, Dheeraj brings specialized expertise in the lab-grown diamond sector, having spent over a year driving growth at Divinecarat (Lucira). Passionate about the craftsmanship, trust, and evolving customer preferences that define the industry, he writes about market trends, modern brand strategy, and the future of fine jewelry.
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